Tokyo Guide
Tokyo Unscripted: A Local-Feeling Guide by Jesús Rivero
I’m Jesús Rivero — 40, incurably in love with Japan, and the kind of nerd who can argue Edo vs. Heian etiquette while slurping tsukemen. This is the Tokyo I show my friends: the city’s famous heartbeats and the quieter rhythms where locals breathe. It’s a guide you can follow on your first trip, then reuse when you crave deeper layers.
Essentials for a smooth first trip
- 🌸Best time: late Mar–Apr (sakura), late Oct–Nov (autumn leaves).
- 🛬Airport to city: Narita Express / Keisei Skyliner; Haneda Monorail or Keikyu.
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- 🚅Trains: Doing Tokyo ⇄ Kyoto/Osaka? The JR Pass still wins for long hops.
- 💳Local transit: Load Suica/PASMO (see IC cards guide).
- 🛏️Hotels: Stay near JR/Metro hubs — handpicked ideas.
- 🍵Tours: Food walks, tea rituals & Fuji trips — browse here.
- 🚗Car days: Hakone / Fuji Five Lakes — rent here.
- 🩺Insurance: Choose cashless treatment — compare policies.
Thunder to hush: finding the city’s rhythm
Neighborhoods by vibe
- 🗼Shinjuku / Shibuya (first-timers): maximal convenience, late food, easy trains.
- 🖼️Ginza / Shiodome (design + calm): sky-lobbies, art hotels, walk to Tsukiji Outer.
- ⛩️Asakusa / Ueno (classic): arcades, shrines, museums.
- ☕Nakameguro / Daikanyama (slow coffee): riverside walks, bookstores, tiny roasters.
Three ways to spend perfect days
A) First-Timers’ Tokyo (2–3 days)
Day 1 – Icons with breathing room
- Meiji Shrine → Yoyogi Park walk
- Harajuku crepes → Omotesando architecture
- Shibuya Sky at sunset
- Yakitori alley (Omoide Yokocho / Ebisu Yokocho)
Day 2 – Old meets new
- Senso-ji at opening time
- Sumida riverside → Hamarikyu Gardens tea house
- Ginza art/bookstores → Ramen night (Rokurinsha at Tokyo Ramen Street)
Day 3 (optional)
- teamLab (Borderless/Azabudai) morning slot
- Nezu Shrine → Yanaka kissaten crawl
- Craft beer or sake tasting in Kanda
B) Hidden-Gems Tokyo (my personal loop)
- 🍢Kichijoji Harmonica Yokocho: post-war lanes, yakitori by 6 pm.
- 🪱Meguro Parasitological Museum: delightfully odd, 30–45 min.
- 📚Nakano Broadway: manga, retro toys, soft-serve towers.
- 🏮Kagurazaka at dusk: lantern alleys, little-Paris cafés.
- 📖Daikanyama Tsutaya T-Site: get lost in the stacks with a flat white.
- 🌿Todoroki Valley: a green thread stitched through the city.
C) Day Trips that Feel Like Films
- Kamakura & Enoshima: giant Buddha, hydrangeas, sea breeze.
- Hakone loop: ropeway, pirate ship cruise, onsen — smoother by car.
- Fuji Five Lakes: panoramic drives, museums, caves — rent a car.
The short, honest list
- 🔥Yakitori counters: order “omakase 5 sticks” + seasonal veg; add smoked cheese if you see it.
- 🥩Tonkatsu pilgrimage: choose a spot that lists pork breeds; try a fattier cut once.
- 🍜Ramen trio: rich tsukemen (Rokurinsha), yuzu-shio (AFURI), pork bomb (Jiro Mita Honten).
- 🥢Okonomiyaki you grill: rainy-day comfort; share a “mix”.
- ☕Coffee I cross town for: Onibus (Nakameguro), Coffee Supreme (Yoyogi).
No-drama essentials
Connectivity & Payments
- Install an eSIM, or pick a SIM card. Families & laptops: Pocket Wi-Fi.
- Cards are common; keep coins for shrines, ramen, retro shops.
Transit Like a Local
- Grab Suica/PASMO (Apple/Google Wallet works). Explained: IC cards.
- For shinkansen & big hops: JR Pass.
- Shinjuku–Shibuya is walkable — allow yourself to wander.
Places that explain the city
- 🎋Nezu Museum (Aoyama): bamboo approach, hidden strolling garden that swallows noise.
- 🌇Tokyo City View Sky Deck: open-air 360°; go at blue hour to watch the switch-on.
- 🥃Omoide Yokocho: handful of seats per bar; order a highball and absorb the smoke-and-stories.
- 🧧Jizo-dori (Sugamo): grandma’s Harajuku — red underwear for luck and the kindest smiles.
- 🧵Bingoya: five floors of crafts; learn a technique from an artisan without a tour.
- 🍮Shirohige’s Cream Puffs: Totoro pastry, and a neighborhood worth an afternoon crawl.
Quick answers
How many days do I need?
3 full days covers icons + one deep neighborhood. 5 nights is ideal.
Should I base only in Tokyo?
For 7–10 days, split Tokyo–Kyoto–Osaka. The JR Pass keeps it smooth.
Cash or card?
Both. 7-Eleven ATMs accept foreign cards; small eateries often prefer cash.
Best internet options?
Solo/newer phones: eSIM. Older: SIM. Families: Pocket Wi-Fi.
Where should I stay?
Near a major JR/Metro hub (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza, Asakusa). Start here: Hotels.
One-click, no overwhelm
Find your corners
Let the big sights orient you — then go get “lost” on purpose: a lane where lanterns buzz, a park where ginkgo leaves fall like coins, a bookstore whose staff picks change your reading year. If this guide helps you find your Tokyo, I’ve done my job. I’ll be at the counter ordering ginkgo nuts and a second highball.